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Good to Go Mighty Meatballs

Spaghetti and meatballs is no ordinary dish the way it's prepared at Village Pizzeria. the hefty meatballs (3 1/2 ounces each) combine ground pork and beef chuck. They come two to a serving along with Barilla spaghetti in the restaurant's own marinara sauce. Instead of the usual garlic bread, the order includes a garlic bun that is coiled like a cinnamon roll. it's made from something the restaurant has a lot of - pizza dough.
-BARBARA HANSEN

Passionate About Pizza
 
Counter Intelligence
 
By Charles Perry

Village pizzeria is another East Coast roots (this time New York: the walls are thickly crusted with Big Apple memorabilia) in another tough neighborhood for parking, Larchmont Boulevard. This one is more restaurant than takeout place, though. It even has beer and wine. Here you can get your pizza with either a thick or thin crust, and the emphasis is more on the toppings. This place is more experiment-minded with them too. It offers a couple of "veggie" pizzas, and feta cheese often shows up. Still, none of them can really beat Village Pizzeria's devasteing pepperoni pizza. The excellent mozzarella is topped with spicy, aromatic sausage slices cooked down so far they've turned into a sort of pepperoni jerky, so chewy, salty and concentrated it almost hurts the tongue. This is a gorgeously, indefensibly rich pizza, too-the plate positively runs with orange sausage grease, and the waitress is likely to volunteer extra napkins. A couple of simple pasta dishes are available. For instance, chewy meat or mushroom ravioli, baked ziti in a fresh tomato sauce with lots of garlic or penne with chicken and broccoli and even more garlic. No choice of hot or cold submarine sandwiches on the menu here, they're all heated up in the pizza oven, and seem to have been pressed-the effect of the ham sandwich is pretty close to the Cuban pressed sandwich. The sausage pizza, made with homemade sausage and a judicious amount of tomato sauce, is one of the more satisfying around. Larchmont may have its parking shortage, but this place manages to be pretty busy most of the time, proving the old saying: If you build a serious pizza, they will come.